South Island

So, we had one more day at the bronx, which was good weather! for the first time. where I finally climbed something else, Pro-Series, but, a variation top out! haha, you do the problem to the sharp flakey jug where you would mantle out from there-on, but from there I got a crimp under the lip and lock leftwards into a sidepull on the other problem and finished up that one, dont see the difference in difficulty really I just personally think it climbs nicer like that! So still about V8, that;s NZ V8 though......

Then I tired Fatal Discharge, which is Font 8A, hardest problem in Wellington, which it is hard. Now IF it does stat on a cresent-y shaped shallow dishy crimp RH and LH on a undercut next to it, which it says in the guide, then I've done it all missing out the first slap. Good progress possibly for one session. Then we got the ferry to the South Island and went to paynes ford where I did 2 (really good) routes then it rained but it was still awesome. Now were at Castle Hill, first day there today, fucking amazing. One word...''MAGICAL''. I just did V5's today, all the best ones at Spittle, mainly barefoot. Third day on today climbing, very tired. Its late, I'm in Christchurch, its late, I need to drive back to castle hill, I'm aching, and I need to get stronger!

Wellington

So its raining here once again, yesterday we tried to climb at 'the rak' but it was the worst wind ive ever experienced, before it got too bad I managed to do a 7A+ that goes into a 6C, which is one of the nicest problems i've done, Uber-someting. But yeah, I want to do 'Pumping Iron' but that has a big lake/puddle under it. Hopefully things'l clear up soon. Living in a van in the rain is a bit shit, and I keep running the battery out at New World! Some Moari guy put a fork to brandons face and tried to steal the car after pretending to help us jump start it, cheers DUDE!

Probably thinking about heading to the South, maybe Paynes Ford, heard theres a problem called the Great White, 8A, maybe its sunny there?

Coming Clean

OK guys, i'l admit it, I failed the mission. Anti Hesitor beat me! It took 2 sessions to work out the beta for the full thing, then on the third, I simply couldnt do the full thing from the start. I have done all the moves and done the last half several times, however on the day I just didnt do it...and brandon did. I've seen the video and still have no idea how you could jump to the last hold from a toe hook!? The crux beta for us is basically reach out to the left hand, put the left toe around the corner behind a spike thing, which has cut and bruised my foot pretty badly (yeah, shaking out at this posistion is a bad idea, dont try it!) slap with the right hand, right foot over to the dark foot rail, then (the crux) take the toe hook out, which causes your leg to swing pretty deeply and fuck your arms up! then place is on dark foothold in the roof just where the last undercut is, getting in this position is hard, then swing forwards and backwards maybe twice or something and slap for the last hold, re-adjust and slide your hand along to the jug section of the hold (or you might ov already been able to ge that part) and match and top-out. Certainly 7C+. in 3/4 weeks im driving up to Auckland to pick my mum up so I will stop off there and try and do it, and possibly on video. I'm now fully based in Wellington, and for the first time in 6 weeks I can climb regularly, well, for the first time ever I have outside climbs close by to where I live (hour-ish away) but the difference is the climbing wall 15mins away! at the Hangdog, I had my first session there today and it should be very useful! Psyched now to climb at Turakarie Head, so maybe I will climb something cool there? Hopefully anyway!

NZ

Hello world,. We have spent a week in Auckland getting brown and ''stuff'', watching palm trees ect. We have a van, with a bed, and curtains now. We are in the mother fucking Waitamo region! its pissing it down :D

We tried 'Anti Hesitor' Font 7c+ at the Airstrip bouldering for a little bit today. it was soaking wet outside the cave, but we did most of it quicly, obviously except the crux-two moves left'- the second one couldnt be tried because of the rain, so one move we couldnt do, but we now have the beta for it, the second ones a jump-campus move anyway so were alright guys. Hopefully be dry and do that tomorrow or whenever, its only had one repeat...but yeah New Zealands pretty amazing! Met a whole bunch of people already from all over the world.

Moving to New Zealand Tomorrow..

So, for anyone who actually ever looks on here (sad bastards), I can assure you that from this week onwards you will be dazzled with images and ascents of new zealands finest! Me,Brandon, Angus kille and Tom Fenwick are heading to New'z tomorrow. From grot view cave link-ups to Wellingtons testpeices, to Castle Hills V2's.

I leave this country a person with enough knowledge of the system you perceive to be reality that could blow your fucking mind! This last year of research and exploration has lead me to conclude that exiting the western world is the last option for me to live in future peace.

Leaving the negative realm, all my energy will now be focused on my climbing.

Stay tuned if you want some HOT FUCKING SHIT; straight from NZ.....

Peace,

Moors Searching

Again, this time with Brandon, we went stomping around the moors to find new boulders, after covering some land and getting very wet we did get to a boulder which Lee had seen the other week. With the same rock quality as Rassassier. It didnt take long but working out the sequence was fun, you will probably need spotters but if you up in the moors, Deprivation - font 7a+ is a cool line. From a sit start.



Apart from that I havnt beeb out, next week though. NZ in 3 weeks!

Recent

So last week we went to the lake district, but, it rained alot and we got a puntchure on my step mums car, managed to do a little bit on the Bowderstone and have a look at Kentmere for the first time, which was the worst mozzy experience i've ever come across, we did however climb a cool eliminate problem on the first big boulder on the left.

Then this week we went back to the cave, mainly pottered around and climbed lots of things, I did forget my down jacket though so I was cold at night in the cave with my £8 sleeping bag from CCC.

Lakes-

Daves Circuit - Font 7C+ (very very nice moves)
Moon Matrix - Font 7C (eliminate at Kentmere)

Parisella's-

Broken Heart - Font7C+ (finished up Lip Service without drop knee method, awesome)
Lip Service CBLS - Font 7B+ - (same method)
Lip Service Extreme Right - (sit start over the right hand side of the cave on the flat hold, same beta)

(Me on Broken Heart)


We may go into the pass next week to try and climb harder, and shorter problems!