Friday, 2 October 2009

The Terrace

Last week Brandon did The Terrace at Burbage North, I nearly did it, but after figuring out how to do the second to last move, which was the move I kept falling off on' from doing it from the start, I then couldnt do the first move. So yeah I was abit annoyed that I didnt do it. So I said ''right, next week I'm guna go and do it!''.

So yesterday I got up and got the train to Sheffield>Hathersage and then hitched up to Burbage, by myself as Brandon couldn't come, but in a way I wanted to go by myself as I felt it was some unfinished business that just me and The Terrace had. I warmed up and then headed to it, firstly I tried the second-to-last move, and did it first go, so I was feeling confident then that all I had to do was the first slap and it would get sent. But, I couldn't do the first move, its just, burly and precise and just generally tricky, but eventually I stuck it, but I was abit shocked, which made me abit nervous, came to do the second-to-last move and I was feeling to over-confident and basically fell off. I then took big rests and even had a couple of breaks, but I just couldn't re-do the first move, bearing in mind I couldn't brush the holds and they was getting clogged up, and the sun was blazing the shothole, as it was a warm day. But, eventually, I pulled on and hit the hole, I then went into what I would call ''Execution Mode'' where your mind has no negative thoughts, you not thinking about falling off, you just do each move as they come and do them as perfectly as you can, it was kind of like being in a dream or something, didn't really feel real, so I then did all of the moves and slapped to the top, which is an awesome positive jug thing, topping out felt amazing. So yeah, given the conditions I think soft Font7c+ is about right, although some may disagree, god knows, anyway its an awesome problem with good moves, now onto more 7C's/+'s in the peak.....

Chow

Tuesday, 15 September 2009

Artificial Intelligence

So, a few days ago the long standing project got done, by myself, 'the crimp project' had been a project for about 12 active sessions, and features a very hard crux move on pretty small holds for the angle that its at (42/3 degrees). If I still had my video camera I would of made a little video about it but, I dont have one anymore. I named it 'Artificial Intelligence' and gave it Font7c+, it is unrepeated. I am hopefully moving to Sheffield around Christmas time, as my mum is moving, if this actually happens I think I will just blow up, like spontaneous human combustion, it will be that good!
Sometime in the next few days I will be going to try and boulder problem called Mossatrocity at Grindleford Train station, its Font7c and is an amazing line, not really my best style of climbing but I really want to try it purely because it looks so good!

Thursday, 3 September 2009

Training

So yeah, after my trip to Wales I have been training in my garage alot, which is called 'The Tendon Shelter', me and Brandon have put up a few hard problems so far since the wall got good and we got the Moon Climbing holds, these are the problems/projects:


Air Born Killer - Font7a
Jesus Dont Want Me For A Sunbeam - Font 7b/7b+
Dusty Milk - Font 7b/7b+
Homie I Dont Know She's Hot And Cold - Font 7c

Projects,
''Artificial Intelligence'' - Font7c+ (?)


''Middle Vision'' - Font7c

and a couple other unnamed ones.



There are some more photos on RED TIPS CLIMBING

Friday, 21 August 2009

Wales

I got back from wales last night, it was, pretty awesome...



Day 1 - Tried various things in Parisella's Cave and then chilled out on the beach, (slept in the cave)
Day 2 - Tried Rockatrocity, but then my hands
started to hurt so I had a big rest, except I started doing some crazy traverses which meant I got mega pumped a few times, we then started to try it again, and I fell on the last move! twice!, I was just getting so pumped, this was pretty frustrating, but I will definatly do it next time I go there. (slept in the cave)


Day 3- A full rest day, chilled out on this amazing beach, then we went to Conwy and stuff, (slept in the Car)
Day 4 - We headed to the LLanberis Pass, where the mountains are amazing! This was a good day, we mainly climbed at the Jerry's boulder. I climbed a problem which I thought was 'Johnny's Problem', but it turns out that I missed a handhold out, not sure what the grade is without the hole thing but it was still tricky to flash. I then did Bus Stop Font7c, this was my first 7c and is an awesome problem.


(Me on 'Bus Stop' - Font 7c)




Then I went home...I am now very psyched for everything, escpecially the Grit season!
Keep the psyche people!

Sunday, 16 August 2009

Going to Wales

I'm going to Wales tomorrow, for 5 days, I may climb some hard boulders, who knows, but it will be fun anyway, Rock Atrocity/Lou Ferrino/Jerry's Roof are the ones I am mostly psyched for.


Oh and I have made my wall pretty awesome now, wiht Moon screw on's, and both walls are now 42degrees, fun fun, pictures after Wales, if you live in/near Scunthorpe you can come and train :) just email me.

Peace out,

Liam

Wednesday, 5 August 2009

Good

Getting stronger, getting more money, feel very light lately and my fingers keep getting stronger, would now like to climb some hard boulder problems, I want to go on loads of climbing trips, I am excited for the grit season....... www.red-tips.com

Monday, 13 July 2009

Wall Improvments

Sooo, basically, I dont have much money. I knew this would happen so I invested in some new holds for my wall so I dont have to go to Sheffield as much, becuase it's just too expensive. So i'm aiming to buy loads and loads of holds. Here is a link to a video which is a short tour of my woody... http://www.red-tips.com/apps/videos/videos/view/3942372-the-tendon-shelter


Stay psyched!

South Island

So, we had one more day at the bronx, which was good weather! for the first time. where I finally climbed something else, Pro-Series, but, a...