Climbed Mossatrocity on Monday, on and off rain, 2/3 sessions, awesome problem, sick line. Went to Rubicon Wall on Wednesday, made good progress on various things, going to the Bowderstone on Monday for a week, should be amazing. Also going to New Zealand in 4 months, then Hampi in India. Amazing :)

Yooo, I have been working 6 days a week, bought my ticket to New Zealand I'm going 21st September this year! I went out not long ago made progress on The Joker, got my hand on the jug regularly but its just hard to hold the full swing and everything, it'l go, I want to try some other 8A's in the peak as well, I'm going to the Lakes next month and in May. Getting close to V11 I think maybe, anyway I still love climbing :)

I went up to the North Yorkshire Moors the other Sunday with Lee from Betaguides, found some sick projects and did this nice little problem..

So, if anyone out there is remotely interested in my climbing...I've decided the give climbing up, its just not worth what you get out of it...

Ahhhh only joking guys,

Yeah, I got some new holds for my wall, so training is more fun...havn't been out in a while, last time it snowed...pretty frustrating...still getting stronger and climbing harder though...

New Zealand this year for an extensive crazy rampage, annnnd lets climb Font 8a soon :)

Below is my project on the wall, its very fucking fingery and hard. Its 8 moves long with some lock-y-off-y moves and some screw on footholds..pretty nails. If I can climb this project, then I should be able to climb 8a outside...I think, maybe, its just nails basically

Pics

Here are some pics of me doing Brad Pit...

Brad Pit

So Friday last week me and a friend went to Stanage, to try Brad Pit. I had wanted to try/do this problem for ages but never felt that I was good enough to try it. Anyway we had about an hour on it, it took me a fair few goes until I was on the slopers, and eventually was hitting the jug, I did get my hand actually on the jug at one point but was kind of swinging off as I hit it. My mate had two bleeding tips so we had to leave, I'm sure I would of done it that session if we had stayed. Me and Brandon went back on the Sunday, after getting warmed up, I then somehow managed to send it first go, which didnt feel real at all, its fair to say that I was abit disorientated about it, escpecially because Brandon joked with someone that we was guna try and flash it for a warm up, so it looked like I had flashed it. I reassured the guy that I had tried it before, and then asked him if he had a camera so he could take some photos and them email them to me, luckily he did. I mainly just wanted a photo on the crux posistion but I ended up doing the problem again without falling. I'm still waiting for him to email me them but I'm sure it will be within the next couple of days, or today. Brandon was still trying it at this point, it was his second session on it as well. Another guy, called James Jacobs came over and tried it with us, I then climbed it again without falling. Which did seem abit, strange, doing it 3 times in a row. so I didnt try it again becuase I didnt want to fall of it! haha. Its technically not very hard at all, its just, all psychological and technical, once you can find this certain position its fine. So yeah Brandon did end up doing it. I'l post the pictures the moment I get them. Oh If anyones wondering why Brandon has done Brass Monkeys and I haven't, its because I haven't tried it yet. And like Ben Moon said

''Brad Pit, I mean its hard but its not that hard, I could certainly climb something alot harder than that''

Next up: More 7C/7C+'s and The Joker

Grit

Me and Brandon went to Stanage yesterday so I could try Brass Monkeys and Brad Pitt, but, it was all wet and damp, and there was no wind, some other stuff dried so I did end up doing a couple of problems, Bens Reverse - Font 7b and for randomness did the The Full Green Traverse - Font 7a+, first go, I have done it before ages ago so obviously its not a flash but yeah, its pumpy for me! I was so psyched for Brass Monkeys though, I've only tried it a couple of times ages ago but its an awesome problem.

Even though the rock was abit glassy and moist I had a couple of go's at The Joker, the almighty joker! I gave it a go by myself with one pad and got about 12cm away from the top, so I asked Brandon to spot me and I commited abit more and ended up getting 6/7cm away from the top, which is big progress for me, its scary though! haha, I felt asif if commtted fully I would like go flying 100mph or something but yeah, awesome, I know that then you have to hold it but still I feel that im getting stronger, my fingers definatly feel alot stronger, I think my campus board is going to help alot as well. So abit more training, at least 2 pads and 2 spotters, and then we will see if we can be tapping/grabbing whos knows even holding the top!

But, if I do think im going to do it, I will definatly be getting it on video...

Chew Valley Developments

So me...from Red Tips Climbing and a guy called Lee Robinson from Beta Guides teamed up and headed to Chew Valley in the Peak District last Sunday to hopefully find some new boulders, we ended up at The Standing Stones. There is a massive pile of boulders below the crag which all looked good, from a distance, most were not as big and some were as good as they looked but just had very bad landings.

Here as some problems that we put up, if you know that they have been done before please email me.

Mine - Popcorn Prow - Font 6a & Dredger Lefthand - Font 7a/7a+ Video at the bottom of the post- That climbs an E2 6b arete, but on the lefthand side instead of the righthand side, this may not seem like much but it does makes a big difference!

Lee's - Red Tips - Font 5+/6a, Pinchy The Lobster - Font 7a & also The Moors Tiger, its around Font 6b is you find the left hand crimp, if you dont and do it the long way which is cupping the arete with your right hand and pressing off with your left its at least Font 6c, maybe 6c+.

ABOVE - Me finishing the second ascent (?) - The Moors Tiger

BELOW - Popcorn Prow

BELOW - Me on the second ascent (?) Red Tips

BELOW - Lee Robinson on Pinchy The Lobster

Below, The Starting moves of Dredger Left Hand

And here is The Video, again, if you know if this has been done before please email me, oh and it was windy as hell so you might wana turn the voulme down a touch!

Anyway, see ya later guys, oh and I have a campus board in my back garden now, I'l take some photos today.