Moving to New Zealand Tomorrow..

So, for anyone who actually ever looks on here (sad bastards), I can assure you that from this week onwards you will be dazzled with images and ascents of new zealands finest! Me,Brandon, Angus kille and Tom Fenwick are heading to New'z tomorrow. From grot view cave link-ups to Wellingtons testpeices, to Castle Hills V2's.

I leave this country a person with enough knowledge of the system you perceive to be reality that could blow your fucking mind! This last year of research and exploration has lead me to conclude that exiting the western world is the last option for me to live in future peace.

Leaving the negative realm, all my energy will now be focused on my climbing.

Stay tuned if you want some HOT FUCKING SHIT; straight from NZ.....

Peace,

Moors Searching

Again, this time with Brandon, we went stomping around the moors to find new boulders, after covering some land and getting very wet we did get to a boulder which Lee had seen the other week. With the same rock quality as Rassassier. It didnt take long but working out the sequence was fun, you will probably need spotters but if you up in the moors, Deprivation - font 7a+ is a cool line. From a sit start.



Apart from that I havnt beeb out, next week though. NZ in 3 weeks!

Recent

So last week we went to the lake district, but, it rained alot and we got a puntchure on my step mums car, managed to do a little bit on the Bowderstone and have a look at Kentmere for the first time, which was the worst mozzy experience i've ever come across, we did however climb a cool eliminate problem on the first big boulder on the left.

Then this week we went back to the cave, mainly pottered around and climbed lots of things, I did forget my down jacket though so I was cold at night in the cave with my £8 sleeping bag from CCC.

Lakes-

Daves Circuit - Font 7C+ (very very nice moves)
Moon Matrix - Font 7C (eliminate at Kentmere)

Parisella's-

Broken Heart - Font7C+ (finished up Lip Service without drop knee method, awesome)
Lip Service CBLS - Font 7B+ - (same method)
Lip Service Extreme Right - (sit start over the right hand side of the cave on the flat hold, same beta)

(Me on Broken Heart)


We may go into the pass next week to try and climb harder, and shorter problems!

Doncaster Update

On Monday me, Brandon, and Lee from Beta Guides went over to Doncaster to scope out the boulders we found.

We made progress on the prow project (Into The Light) ,photo above, I got higher, all the way to the crimp out right, then I reached my foot onto a footblock out right, you cant do much with that position though but it made it apparent that the wall isn't wide enough to be purely climbed on its on..you could do it without the footblock and climb central but it would be eliminate and people could easily mistake whether you can use the block or not. Still, we couldnt do it, it seems like you may be able to reach across to the arete and then top out, this would still be about Font 7b+/7c or something, I'm not sure though we need to find some new beta, however the crimp feels like it may snap off so an abseil next time will be needed.

(the footblock is somewhere in the red circle)

Also, you could go from the footlblock, upwards, not sure what that would be though.

Backat The Cave

After half days at work and a mock driving test, on Thursday, me and Brando head to LLandudno, again. Well, we didnt get as far as that, the last train took us to ''Llanduno Junction'', somewhere not too far, after making some decent home made prison style shanks using forks and tin openers, and looking which bush to sleep in, we decided to see how much a taxi would be, but hold on one sec, please dont think i'm a taxi-man, I would never pay for a taxi unless I was next to a council estate and prepared to do whats necessary with a tin opener in Wales. Which, I was, so, we payed 5quid each and she took us right up to the Orme! There was already some people sleeping in the cave, but funny enough it was the same guys from last time. So the next day was pretty awesome because it rained all day and seeped through, but everyone was being tenacious and having a laugh at the same time, which is a nearly impossible combination in sheffield/peak sometimes.

I repeated Ferrino Footless, that Brandon had done the other week, video of Brandon - http://vimeo.com/13433998

I dont think it is Font 8a+, everyone who i've asked there said it was but I would say it is font 8a, again, I can't really say whats 8a and whats not, yet. On the other hand, I do have a campus board in my back garden, and thats really how I train, like when I used to go to the works, I'd spend 2/3 hours footless bouldering, so possibly this thing feels hard for other people? Anyway, soft Font 8a i've given it.

After everyone went home, I had a couple of stella's and got on Lou Ferrino Half Natural, well I just made that name up but its Lou but without the drilled pocket up on the right hand side, apparently its around Font 8A, it was after a full days climbing but it did feel hard, i've worked the beta out anyway for the last rib section and next time I go i'l try and do it.

6 weeks time, New Zealand!

Bowderstone next week...

Moors FA's Pictures

All pics from Lee at Beta Guides, http://betaguides.blogspot.com/2010/07/sleeping-on-boulders.html

Me on Rassassier - Font 7C/7C+

Lee on Nocturnal Font 6B+ , a hard problem which I couldn't do! Effort Lee, still dont know how you did it

Me on Badger SS, another awesome problem at Badger Rock

Doncaster Bouldering..What!?

After a disastrous 2 days trying to find dry rock, me and Brandon thought it was time we headed to Doncaster. We only actually got time to climb 3 new problems, but we had to cut all the overhanging trees/bushes/ivy off, then take anything from the top-outs (alot of mud). Suprisingly it didnt take that long after abit of graft to have the boulders nice and clean, the rock is pretty good quality, to say its limestone, certainly better than the quality of the peak, no grozzles or anything really. I'l need at least another full session to do that, we may have to get Beta Guides in... I know some of the boulders are tiny but man, its in Doncaster! To us from Scunthorpe, will know how it feels to have no rock, tell em Jon!

The Video on Vimeo: http://vimeo.com/13626564

For now though, its all for the 'Into The Light' Project, first we cut all the ivy off that we could reach, then Brandon abseiled in to make it clean and brush up the top out. What we are basically trying to do it climb the prow and then break off into the wall. Right now we dont know if its going to be possible, there is a good hold which you use to get a pinch on the wall with your left, then to the crimp with right, then to the top? I guess we'l see..But, at the moment its looking nails so i just guessed the grade range to how it felt, we might not

actually be able to climb the wall section or lock the crimp to the top, i guess thats apart of it though, not knowing.

Brandon on 'Proper Glory' Font 7b

The Line of 'Into The Light', it doesnt keep to the left really,just straight up the wall, its also aot bigger than it looks, and better quality!