Saturday, 26 July 2008

Heading For The Lakes

I'm going away to the Lake District next week for 4 days will hopefully get some good climbing done, i think we are staying at a lakeside campsite near Coniston.I think on one of the first days
we will go to Scout Scar to do some Limestone sport routes there, Ive got a couple in mind

Born To Run* F6b+ - which will hopefully be a enjoyable onsight.
First Blood* F7a+ - something a bit harder so a ground up redpoint attempt for that.

and if the First Blood goes well i may get on 'A vision Of Things Gone Wild' F7b which
i will try and get a top-rope on, if not, ground up again, as i have no clip-stick, so i may
come back with one less quickdraw.

I think we will go to The Climbers Shop in Ambleside and get some advice on other places to climb and which guidebook to get.We will probably do some Scrambling as well which will be change for me and should be fun.

Monday, 21 July 2008

Chosen Route..


So if you read my last post you will know that i top roped The Strangler 5c (E4 if lead) at Stanage Plantation, i on sighted it on top rope yet did need beta from Franco who lead it. In Autumn i am going to lead this, this will probably be my first E4, bit of a step to say I've only climbed HVS 5b (on sight) but I'll be fine once committed. Below is a picture of a Climber on the route (The Strangler E4 5c)


Friday, 18 July 2008

Crazy,Funny,Cold,Climbing,Camping...

Just Got back and i am so tired, top tip:Don't take the bouldering mat!
First night:
My brother got off the train at Hathersage,and the doors closed and left him outside, so we had to get of at Bamford and arrange to meet him at the North Lee's campsite, that's where the trip started.A very long walk in (5miles*) with the bouldering mat that had 6 cans of strongbow,A jumper, and a big jacket shoved inside it,AND my 88ltr army rucksack with clothes,food ( for 4 days),full trad rack,50m rope, all cooking stuff including two gas canisters,5 bottles of lucozade,harness,two pairs of climbing shoes, etc,etc,etc and well if you really want to now how it went ill cut it a little bit shorter, first night i top-roped a E4 5c (onsight with one slip) at Stanage Plantation which Franco Lead.Got on 'Right unconquerable' (lead) but needed a bit of help on the mantle (i went to much to the right hand side) then onsight soloed an HVS 5b, and that was it for the first day, woke up went to Burbage north did 25 routes, all solo's VS 5b/5c's and HVS 5b's and some easier stuff.Long Tall sally looked shit so i wasn't physced to do that, especially after doing 25 routes all ready.Next day (raining) so got drunk,walked to Hathersage, eat, tried to chat up some lasses then went home, 'physco legs' was off walking somewhere. I have missed out about 99% of the stuff but thats the trip in climbing terms, ill post loads of pics withing the next couple of days.

Monday, 14 July 2008

Away on a Trip...

I am going on a climbing trip today till Friday so i wont be able to write anything.I am hoping to onsight at least E1 and possibly headpoint an E3 5c.We will be going up to Stanage today so i will probably only go up to HVS to keep it safe for the first day, then tomorow we will probably walk up to Burbage North where i'd like to do 'Long Tall Sally'.

Friday, 11 July 2008

No Trad Just Training

So yeah i didn't go sport climbing because of the crap weather on Wednesday and today if the weather was good i was going to go do some Grit Trad because the temperature seemed pretty low but when we got to Sheffield it started raining! it is really frustrating just carrying on training but i suppose it will help when i do 'eventually' get outside.I went to the Edge climbing wall and worked this f7a on top rope and got to the top with a couple of rests and did bouldering for ages! v3/4's.Tried a v6 but it has got a pretty hard sit start so i had no success on that.I am looking forward to a climbing trip next week to the eastern peak district (stanage,burbage area) for about 4 days which should be cool if the weathers good.

Wednesday, 9 July 2008

No Sport Just Training

So the weather was really bad today which means we didn't go sport climbing, i spent the whole day at the climbin works training pretty hard, i did 1,3,5 on the campus board but on tiny edges and 1,4,6 on the good blocks.This mean i am wrecked,but my brother is going sport climbing now tomorrow even though it will probably be wet.So I'm resting tomorrow then sport climbing indoors on Friday,But i really really need to climb outdoors, its pretty frustrating, but ill have to just keep training.Ill blog again after Friday night.

Tuesday, 8 July 2008

Tiredness and sport climbing

Like the title suggest i've spent the last two days training pretty hard indoors but now i've agreed to go sport climbing with 'andy gravestock' tommorow and i'm pretty nakerd.So with me bieng pretty beaten im going to go for a 6b+ onsight and a E1 lead onsight.This means i wont be going bouldering on Thursday because on Friday im training indoors again and at this stage i cannot hanlde 5 days of climbing in a row.Ill blog again on Thursday when im bored because i havn't gone bouldering.Ill attach a photo later on of my climbing wall i built in my garage.

Sunday, 6 July 2008


Where i started and my goals

You can see from my last blog what my first climbs were, i climbed them only two or three months after i started climbing, My 6th outdoor route was a HVS which i top-roped once first because i was a little bit unsure if i was capable, after this climb i very quickly gained a list of onsighted HVS's, alot of which were solo's my current max grade is HVS 5b but,not to sound big-headed,i am probably capable of E1/E2 onsight and a worked E3 possibly a bold E4, who knows.The summer has brought poor friction to my trusted gritstone crags, so i've climbed a couple of times on Limestone this summer, the first time i onsighted f6a,f6a+ and a f6b after a 8 mile walk :(. I've also had one day where i worked 'Cairn' (f7a/f7a+) for an hour, i worked the moves from a ground up style, so no pre placed clips or toproping, i managed to get to the top wth 2 rests so i'll be going back soon to finish it. Below i've put a list together which appears on my UKC profile, it shows what i want to achive by the very end of this year.

GOALS FOR THE END OF 2008*
  • Lead onsight E1-3 (on grit)...............(HVS 5b now)
  • work then lead E3/4 (on grit)............ (toproped The Stranlger E4 5c once)
  • solo onsight E1/2 (on grit).................... (HVS 5b now)
  • boulder(worked) V4/5 (on grit)........ (only V3 now)
  • redpoint f7a/7a+ (limestone)........... (nearly done 'Carin' f7a/f7a+ (1 hour of working)
  • onsight f6c (limestone)..................... (only f6b now)
  • onsight lead f7a/f7a+ (indoors)........(f6c+ now)
  • work then lead f7b (indoors).............(f7a+ now)

Me,my blog and my climbing

Im new to this 'blogging' thing but i aim to update this blog to show people about myself and my climbing, i've been climbing for about 7-8 months but it was only indoors once every two weeks, but for the past 4 months i've started training and climbing outisde on any possible occasion. My first ever route i climbed outside was 'Cakestand' 'Severe' , an onsight lead at Stanage, then on the same day straight after this climb i onsighted (lead) a HS, then two VS's then went home.So thats were my outdoor climbing started.Anyway ill see what i can do with this site.....

South Island

So, we had one more day at the bronx, which was good weather! for the first time. where I finally climbed something else, Pro-Series, but, a...