South Island

So, we had one more day at the bronx, which was good weather! for the first time. where I finally climbed something else, Pro-Series, but, a variation top out! haha, you do the problem to the sharp flakey jug where you would mantle out from there-on, but from there I got a crimp under the lip and lock leftwards into a sidepull on the other problem and finished up that one, dont see the difference in difficulty really I just personally think it climbs nicer like that! So still about V8, that;s NZ V8 though......

Then I tired Fatal Discharge, which is Font 8A, hardest problem in Wellington, which it is hard. Now IF it does stat on a cresent-y shaped shallow dishy crimp RH and LH on a undercut next to it, which it says in the guide, then I've done it all missing out the first slap. Good progress possibly for one session. Then we got the ferry to the South Island and went to paynes ford where I did 2 (really good) routes then it rained but it was still awesome. Now were at Castle Hill, first day there today, fucking amazing. One word...''MAGICAL''. I just did V5's today, all the best ones at Spittle, mainly barefoot. Third day on today climbing, very tired. Its late, I'm in Christchurch, its late, I need to drive back to castle hill, I'm aching, and I need to get stronger!

Wellington

So its raining here once again, yesterday we tried to climb at 'the rak' but it was the worst wind ive ever experienced, before it got too bad I managed to do a 7A+ that goes into a 6C, which is one of the nicest problems i've done, Uber-someting. But yeah, I want to do 'Pumping Iron' but that has a big lake/puddle under it. Hopefully things'l clear up soon. Living in a van in the rain is a bit shit, and I keep running the battery out at New World! Some Moari guy put a fork to brandons face and tried to steal the car after pretending to help us jump start it, cheers DUDE!

Probably thinking about heading to the South, maybe Paynes Ford, heard theres a problem called the Great White, 8A, maybe its sunny there?

Coming Clean

OK guys, i'l admit it, I failed the mission. Anti Hesitor beat me! It took 2 sessions to work out the beta for the full thing, then on the third, I simply couldnt do the full thing from the start. I have done all the moves and done the last half several times, however on the day I just didnt do it...and brandon did. I've seen the video and still have no idea how you could jump to the last hold from a toe hook!? The crux beta for us is basically reach out to the left hand, put the left toe around the corner behind a spike thing, which has cut and bruised my foot pretty badly (yeah, shaking out at this posistion is a bad idea, dont try it!) slap with the right hand, right foot over to the dark foot rail, then (the crux) take the toe hook out, which causes your leg to swing pretty deeply and fuck your arms up! then place is on dark foothold in the roof just where the last undercut is, getting in this position is hard, then swing forwards and backwards maybe twice or something and slap for the last hold, re-adjust and slide your hand along to the jug section of the hold (or you might ov already been able to ge that part) and match and top-out. Certainly 7C+. in 3/4 weeks im driving up to Auckland to pick my mum up so I will stop off there and try and do it, and possibly on video. I'm now fully based in Wellington, and for the first time in 6 weeks I can climb regularly, well, for the first time ever I have outside climbs close by to where I live (hour-ish away) but the difference is the climbing wall 15mins away! at the Hangdog, I had my first session there today and it should be very useful! Psyched now to climb at Turakarie Head, so maybe I will climb something cool there? Hopefully anyway!