Sunday 29 August 2010

Moors Searching



Again, this time with Brandon, we went stomping around the moors to find new boulders, after covering some land and getting very wet we did get to a boulder which Lee had seen the other week. With the same rock quality as Rassassier. It didnt take long but working out the sequence was fun, you will probably need spotters but if you up in the moors, Deprivation - font 7a+ is a cool line. From a sit start.



Apart from that I havnt beeb out, next week though. NZ in 3 weeks!

Sunday 15 August 2010

Recent

So last week we went to the lake district, but, it rained alot and we got a puntchure on my step mums car, managed to do a little bit on the Bowderstone and have a look at Kentmere for the first time, which was the worst mozzy experience i've ever come across, we did however climb a cool eliminate problem on the first big boulder on the left.

Then this week we went back to the cave, mainly pottered around and climbed lots of things, I did forget my down jacket though so I was cold at night in the cave with my £8 sleeping bag from CCC.

Lakes-

Daves Circuit - Font 7C+ (very very nice moves)
Moon Matrix - Font 7C (eliminate at Kentmere)

Parisella's-

Broken Heart - Font7C+ (finished up Lip Service without drop knee method, awesome)
Lip Service CBLS - Font 7B+ - (same method)
Lip Service Extreme Right - (sit start over the right hand side of the cave on the flat hold, same beta)

(Me on Broken Heart)


We may go into the pass next week to try and climb harder, and shorter problems!

Wednesday 4 August 2010

Doncaster Update



On Monday me, Brandon, and Lee from Beta Guides went over to Doncaster to scope out the boulders we found.

We made progress on the prow project (Into The Light) ,photo above, I got higher, all the way to the crimp out right, then I reached my foot onto a footblock out right, you cant do much with that position though but it made it apparent that the wall isn't wide enough to be purely climbed on its on..you could do it without the footblock and climb central but it would be eliminate and people could easily mistake whether you can use the block or not. Still, we couldnt do it, it seems like you may be able to reach across to the arete and then top out, this would still be about Font 7b+/7c or something, I'm not sure though we need to find some new beta, however the crimp feels like it may snap off so an abseil next time will be needed.

(the footblock is somewhere in the red circle)


Also, you could go from the footlblock, upwards, not sure what that would be though.



South Island

So, we had one more day at the bronx, which was good weather! for the first time. where I finally climbed something else, Pro-Series, but, a...