Mid-week bouldering post

Me and Brandon got up at 4:50 am, we attempted to get to The Plantation for 8:15 so we could take advantage of the friction. Didn't go to plan really, the train delayed and we ended up getting a bus from Sheffield, as we missed the connecting train from Sheffield to Hathersage. As we got close to the crag it started raining, so we layed in a bush for a short while. Walked to the public toilets nearer to the crag and it started raining again, so we stayed in the toilet for a while.

The Rock was wet, we spent ages waiting. Eventually i got warmed up on the semi-dry rock and then flash-repeated a classic Font 6c. I got super close on Captain Hook, but then it started drizzling. We walked to a Font 7a+ arete on Stanage, then it dried up, nearly got that in a few goes but we wanted to move onto Stanage far right. I on-sighted 'Almost A Hold' - Font 6c+ and OS soloed 'The real 20ft Crack' Which is hard when you layback it rather than jam it! I OS soloed another HVS 5c - Easy Walling, I did a sit start to this and claimed it as a font 6b/6b+ boulder problem. I also did a new line that is a bit of an eliminate but still hard/fun. It breaks of a route called 'sleasy jamming' and goes left onto a blank wall, there is a small flake that can be used. There is a chance it has been climbed before but from judging by the rock and line it looks like i may have been the first to do this eliminate line, so at the moment its name is - Liams Sleasy Eliminate - Font 6c. In the end it was a good day, shouldn't have got up so early though as it was wet for the first part, but ah well.

Early bird catches the worm (friction)

The title makes it sound like i'm a psycho boulderer that wakes up at 5 in the morning to do The Ace (8b) before the morning is over..well speaking of people that do just that, i met my friend Scott Mclellan at Stanage plantation to find that he had finished The Ace before i had got there (got there at about 10), so yeah he's pretty inspirational to says hes only been climbing nearly 3 years. I warmed up and then got on Captain Hook (7b), i spent a while on it while the conditions were still OK and now i can do most of the problem, exiting the problem (finishing it) is now the goal for Sunday. I walked over the another boulder and on-sighted a Font 6c which is a really good problem, i had a quick look at where the holds go and then went for it. I then did other various random warm down things to finish and then got the train to Sheffield, then home. So Sunday is the day to complete Captain hook, (Zippy's was damp/wet).

Bouldering..Bouldering..Bouldering...

Wednesday night: finished an indoor V8 at the edge and flashed a V5

Friday Post: Built my bouldering wall (again) in my garage and set problems from V1-v8+/9, i did the V7 but the V8+/9 is, well, nails!

Today's Post: 9:55 train, got the hathersage, got two pies and two packs of munchies. walked the usual long path up to plantation. Warmed up, did the Pebble arete, did the Green Traverse first go (repeat from being worked a while ago). Zippy's traverse was wet so i had loads of try's on Captain Hook, the problem is pretty cool, its got some big slaps on big sloppers. It should get done soon (need more friction and smaller shoes first). Had a few goes on zippys when it dried out a bit, but made no further progress. Tried the sit start to Pebble arete, that should get done soon as well. Did the start of Jerrys Traverse, and also had a general play around on that side of the boulder. I have cut the day short, but i was bouldering for 5 hours..and now im nakerd!! Should be back out soon..

Weekend post

Last Saturday it was raining so me and Brandon went to the Edge climbing centre, Scott (my Friend who works there) told me that the 'young guns' were in, it was the youth British bouldering team. So the bouldering room was packed. I managed to flash up to V6 and fell off a fair few times on a V8 which i will be attempting tonight when i go there. At night we slept at the Fox House Inn and hoped that it wouldn't be raining. In the morning it was really wet but not raining so we walked to Burbage to see what the rock was like, it was wet so waited it out and wasted some time in Hathersage. Eventually the rock dried out, warmed up, flashed the green traverse (repeat from worked), tried Deliverance Traverse and got close but not quiet there yet. Got on Zippy's as well, Zippy's is going to be a challenge for me. I kept falling off whilst trying to get my heel in the hole. Good day, should be out on the Grit again soon.