Winter Gritstone Cragging

Over Christmas me and Brandon have been getting out on the Grit alot!, We have bikes and we have been getting up at 6-7ish to get to the crags earlier, which is pretty tireing!

I haven't done much hard stuff but I have nearly done West Side Story (Burbage West), I've had two small sessions and I'm on the last side pull, I just need to find the footholds and then pop for the pocket. Yesterday I did Breakfast at Burbage West which is Font7a, I got close on my first go but after that the last move kept spitting me off. I eventually found a sneaky side pull and did it first go with the side pull. Its a pretty funky problem.

I have decided that I am going to concentrate on West Side Story (Font7b+) and The Terrace (Font7c+). The Terrace which is at Burbage North looks like my style of climbing, big moves but not (too) reachy, slappy, powerful and really steep. I would really like to do both of these problems before I am 17 which is on the 29th January. And i just thought i would tell you that m friend is making a climbing film and we are going to try and film the sends of these problems, and many more! ( also including grit solos and bold grit routes, oh, and no headpoint just onsighting, onsight attempting, and ground up ascents)

Bouldering at Castle Hill

Font6a Slab at Castle Hill

Pictures

First Ascent of Coral Defence Systems - Font 5+

The temporary unnamed problem, about Font6a/6a+, I can't remember if i or my brother climbed it first.

First Ascent of The Silver Surfer

Possible first ascent, of The Silver Surfer, estimated Font7a

walking to the bouldering

Touronga Bouldering

In Touronga, where I am, is a short limestone crag with some neglectaed sport routes by the bouldering (short wall) is of good quality. I bouldered there yesterday and today, there are crimps, sloppy rails, pockets, pretty much everything. Today is was 'major' hot, like, nearly too hot. So we had to finish climbing early to go in the sea which had some huge waves which are pretty powerful. We made loads of boulder problems and the rock is pretty cool. We also did some deep water bouldering (wall traversing). Which was pretty intense. The boulders on the shore have amazing friction, i havn't done much on them but there is some good climbs. anyway, tomorow is my last full day.

Castle Hill

On the Saturday i went to the Roxx, which was pretty good but all the bouldering didn't really have proper problems so i had to just do eliminates. we ended up going to Castle Hill that evening as well, so i got to climb before ot got dark. Then the next day (Sunday) I climbed there as well. We got a bit shut down by the style of climbing, its completely different to anything i'd been on before, some of the footholds were that polished it would squeak loudly when you placed your foot on it. The handholds were also very polished, some of the problems were very highball, in the guide there were signs saying 'potential fatal fall', and this was for all grades. I climbed alot of the easy problems and just experienced it but didn't send anything hard. Amazing place but two sessions was not enough to get used to it enough to send the hard stuff, plus i just wanted climb on loads of the boulders. I'll post all the pictures probably when i get back. I'm in Tauranga at the moment, and i will probably be staying here for 2 nights. There is bouldering here, and i think there is some possible DWS. anyway gtg.

Walls + Castle Hill

The day after we went to The Airstrip we climbed at 'the wall' in Routaroua. The bouldering wasn't world class or anything, and the matting was a bit shady but it was still a session.

We are going to the climbing wall in Christchurch today, i think its called 'the roxx', but the next two days after that we will be sleeping in the Castle Hill village and climbing at Castle Hill for two days which will probably be the best climbing part of the holiday.

Boulderin in New Zealand No.2

I have managed to get on another pc...Yesterday me and Brandon went bouldering at The Airstrip, south of Hamilton on the North island.The rock is Limestone but has pretty good friction still, the rock has some weird formations and is mostly pinches. We warmed up on some easy boulders and then moved to Grot View Cave, which is a massive limestone cave, where most of the problems start at the back fo the roof and work out and up, i liked this style of climbing because it requires alot fo body tension. Me and Brandon flashed 'Du Hast' (V5/Font 6c+) which is a total pump fest around the inside roof of the cave, in a sort of circular motion. Me and Brandon then did 'Franks Better Half' (V6 Font7a). I gave it one go and found that our initial sequence was wrong, then Brandon tried it another way and got close, then on my 3rd go i sent it (Brandon got it on his second go). We tried the V7 link-up to this but didn't have enough time to do that, i got very close on that as well but time beat us..oh well. I might be going to the bouldering wall today in Routaroua, if not, then i will tomorrow. We are going to the hot mud baths in a minute so goodbye people...i'll blog again when i can :)