Monday 11 October 2010

Coming Clean

OK guys, i'l admit it, I failed the mission. Anti Hesitor beat me! It took 2 sessions to work out the beta for the full thing, then on the third, I simply couldnt do the full thing from the start. I have done all the moves and done the last half several times, however on the day I just didnt do it...and brandon did. I've seen the video and still have no idea how you could jump to the last hold from a toe hook!? The crux beta for us is basically reach out to the left hand, put the left toe around the corner behind a spike thing, which has cut and bruised my foot pretty badly (yeah, shaking out at this posistion is a bad idea, dont try it!) slap with the right hand, right foot over to the dark foot rail, then (the crux) take the toe hook out, which causes your leg to swing pretty deeply and fuck your arms up! then place is on dark foothold in the roof just where the last undercut is, getting in this position is hard, then swing forwards and backwards maybe twice or something and slap for the last hold, re-adjust and slide your hand along to the jug section of the hold (or you might ov already been able to ge that part) and match and top-out. Certainly 7C+. in 3/4 weeks im driving up to Auckland to pick my mum up so I will stop off there and try and do it, and possibly on video. I'm now fully based in Wellington, and for the first time in 6 weeks I can climb regularly, well, for the first time ever I have outside climbs close by to where I live (hour-ish away) but the difference is the climbing wall 15mins away! at the Hangdog, I had my first session there today and it should be very useful! Psyched now to climb at Turakarie Head, so maybe I will climb something cool there? Hopefully anyway!

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