South Island

So, we had one more day at the bronx, which was good weather! for the first time. where I finally climbed something else, Pro-Series, but, a variation top out! haha, you do the problem to the sharp flakey jug where you would mantle out from there-on, but from there I got a crimp under the lip and lock leftwards into a sidepull on the other problem and finished up that one, dont see the difference in difficulty really I just personally think it climbs nicer like that! So still about V8, that;s NZ V8 though......

Then I tired Fatal Discharge, which is Font 8A, hardest problem in Wellington, which it is hard. Now IF it does stat on a cresent-y shaped shallow dishy crimp RH and LH on a undercut next to it, which it says in the guide, then I've done it all missing out the first slap. Good progress possibly for one session. Then we got the ferry to the South Island and went to paynes ford where I did 2 (really good) routes then it rained but it was still awesome. Now were at Castle Hill, first day there today, fucking amazing. One word...''MAGICAL''. I just did V5's today, all the best ones at Spittle, mainly barefoot. Third day on today climbing, very tired. Its late, I'm in Christchurch, its late, I need to drive back to castle hill, I'm aching, and I need to get stronger!

Wellington

So its raining here once again, yesterday we tried to climb at 'the rak' but it was the worst wind ive ever experienced, before it got too bad I managed to do a 7A+ that goes into a 6C, which is one of the nicest problems i've done, Uber-someting. But yeah, I want to do 'Pumping Iron' but that has a big lake/puddle under it. Hopefully things'l clear up soon. Living in a van in the rain is a bit shit, and I keep running the battery out at New World! Some Moari guy put a fork to brandons face and tried to steal the car after pretending to help us jump start it, cheers DUDE!

Probably thinking about heading to the South, maybe Paynes Ford, heard theres a problem called the Great White, 8A, maybe its sunny there?

Coming Clean

OK guys, i'l admit it, I failed the mission. Anti Hesitor beat me! It took 2 sessions to work out the beta for the full thing, then on the third, I simply couldnt do the full thing from the start. I have done all the moves and done the last half several times, however on the day I just didnt do it...and brandon did. I've seen the video and still have no idea how you could jump to the last hold from a toe hook!? The crux beta for us is basically reach out to the left hand, put the left toe around the corner behind a spike thing, which has cut and bruised my foot pretty badly (yeah, shaking out at this posistion is a bad idea, dont try it!) slap with the right hand, right foot over to the dark foot rail, then (the crux) take the toe hook out, which causes your leg to swing pretty deeply and fuck your arms up! then place is on dark foothold in the roof just where the last undercut is, getting in this position is hard, then swing forwards and backwards maybe twice or something and slap for the last hold, re-adjust and slide your hand along to the jug section of the hold (or you might ov already been able to ge that part) and match and top-out. Certainly 7C+. in 3/4 weeks im driving up to Auckland to pick my mum up so I will stop off there and try and do it, and possibly on video. I'm now fully based in Wellington, and for the first time in 6 weeks I can climb regularly, well, for the first time ever I have outside climbs close by to where I live (hour-ish away) but the difference is the climbing wall 15mins away! at the Hangdog, I had my first session there today and it should be very useful! Psyched now to climb at Turakarie Head, so maybe I will climb something cool there? Hopefully anyway!

NZ

Hello world,. We have spent a week in Auckland getting brown and ''stuff'', watching palm trees ect. We have a van, with a bed, and curtains now. We are in the mother fucking Waitamo region! its pissing it down :D

We tried 'Anti Hesitor' Font 7c+ at the Airstrip bouldering for a little bit today. it was soaking wet outside the cave, but we did most of it quicly, obviously except the crux-two moves left'- the second one couldnt be tried because of the rain, so one move we couldnt do, but we now have the beta for it, the second ones a jump-campus move anyway so were alright guys. Hopefully be dry and do that tomorrow or whenever, its only had one repeat...but yeah New Zealands pretty amazing! Met a whole bunch of people already from all over the world.

Moving to New Zealand Tomorrow..

So, for anyone who actually ever looks on here (sad bastards), I can assure you that from this week onwards you will be dazzled with images and ascents of new zealands finest! Me,Brandon, Angus kille and Tom Fenwick are heading to New'z tomorrow. From grot view cave link-ups to Wellingtons testpeices, to Castle Hills V2's.

I leave this country a person with enough knowledge of the system you perceive to be reality that could blow your fucking mind! This last year of research and exploration has lead me to conclude that exiting the western world is the last option for me to live in future peace.

Leaving the negative realm, all my energy will now be focused on my climbing.

Stay tuned if you want some HOT FUCKING SHIT; straight from NZ.....

Peace,

Moors Searching

Again, this time with Brandon, we went stomping around the moors to find new boulders, after covering some land and getting very wet we did get to a boulder which Lee had seen the other week. With the same rock quality as Rassassier. It didnt take long but working out the sequence was fun, you will probably need spotters but if you up in the moors, Deprivation - font 7a+ is a cool line. From a sit start.



Apart from that I havnt beeb out, next week though. NZ in 3 weeks!

Recent

So last week we went to the lake district, but, it rained alot and we got a puntchure on my step mums car, managed to do a little bit on the Bowderstone and have a look at Kentmere for the first time, which was the worst mozzy experience i've ever come across, we did however climb a cool eliminate problem on the first big boulder on the left.

Then this week we went back to the cave, mainly pottered around and climbed lots of things, I did forget my down jacket though so I was cold at night in the cave with my £8 sleeping bag from CCC.

Lakes-

Daves Circuit - Font 7C+ (very very nice moves)
Moon Matrix - Font 7C (eliminate at Kentmere)

Parisella's-

Broken Heart - Font7C+ (finished up Lip Service without drop knee method, awesome)
Lip Service CBLS - Font 7B+ - (same method)
Lip Service Extreme Right - (sit start over the right hand side of the cave on the flat hold, same beta)

(Me on Broken Heart)


We may go into the pass next week to try and climb harder, and shorter problems!

Doncaster Update

On Monday me, Brandon, and Lee from Beta Guides went over to Doncaster to scope out the boulders we found.

We made progress on the prow project (Into The Light) ,photo above, I got higher, all the way to the crimp out right, then I reached my foot onto a footblock out right, you cant do much with that position though but it made it apparent that the wall isn't wide enough to be purely climbed on its on..you could do it without the footblock and climb central but it would be eliminate and people could easily mistake whether you can use the block or not. Still, we couldnt do it, it seems like you may be able to reach across to the arete and then top out, this would still be about Font 7b+/7c or something, I'm not sure though we need to find some new beta, however the crimp feels like it may snap off so an abseil next time will be needed.

(the footblock is somewhere in the red circle)

Also, you could go from the footlblock, upwards, not sure what that would be though.

Backat The Cave

After half days at work and a mock driving test, on Thursday, me and Brando head to LLandudno, again. Well, we didnt get as far as that, the last train took us to ''Llanduno Junction'', somewhere not too far, after making some decent home made prison style shanks using forks and tin openers, and looking which bush to sleep in, we decided to see how much a taxi would be, but hold on one sec, please dont think i'm a taxi-man, I would never pay for a taxi unless I was next to a council estate and prepared to do whats necessary with a tin opener in Wales. Which, I was, so, we payed 5quid each and she took us right up to the Orme! There was already some people sleeping in the cave, but funny enough it was the same guys from last time. So the next day was pretty awesome because it rained all day and seeped through, but everyone was being tenacious and having a laugh at the same time, which is a nearly impossible combination in sheffield/peak sometimes.

I repeated Ferrino Footless, that Brandon had done the other week, video of Brandon - http://vimeo.com/13433998

I dont think it is Font 8a+, everyone who i've asked there said it was but I would say it is font 8a, again, I can't really say whats 8a and whats not, yet. On the other hand, I do have a campus board in my back garden, and thats really how I train, like when I used to go to the works, I'd spend 2/3 hours footless bouldering, so possibly this thing feels hard for other people? Anyway, soft Font 8a i've given it.

After everyone went home, I had a couple of stella's and got on Lou Ferrino Half Natural, well I just made that name up but its Lou but without the drilled pocket up on the right hand side, apparently its around Font 8A, it was after a full days climbing but it did feel hard, i've worked the beta out anyway for the last rib section and next time I go i'l try and do it.

6 weeks time, New Zealand!

Bowderstone next week...

Moors FA's Pictures

All pics from Lee at Beta Guides, http://betaguides.blogspot.com/2010/07/sleeping-on-boulders.html

Me on Rassassier - Font 7C/7C+

Lee on Nocturnal Font 6B+ , a hard problem which I couldn't do! Effort Lee, still dont know how you did it

Me on Badger SS, another awesome problem at Badger Rock

Doncaster Bouldering..What!?

After a disastrous 2 days trying to find dry rock, me and Brandon thought it was time we headed to Doncaster. We only actually got time to climb 3 new problems, but we had to cut all the overhanging trees/bushes/ivy off, then take anything from the top-outs (alot of mud). Suprisingly it didnt take that long after abit of graft to have the boulders nice and clean, the rock is pretty good quality, to say its limestone, certainly better than the quality of the peak, no grozzles or anything really. I'l need at least another full session to do that, we may have to get Beta Guides in... I know some of the boulders are tiny but man, its in Doncaster! To us from Scunthorpe, will know how it feels to have no rock, tell em Jon!

The Video on Vimeo: http://vimeo.com/13626564

For now though, its all for the 'Into The Light' Project, first we cut all the ivy off that we could reach, then Brandon abseiled in to make it clean and brush up the top out. What we are basically trying to do it climb the prow and then break off into the wall. Right now we dont know if its going to be possible, there is a good hold which you use to get a pinch on the wall with your left, then to the crimp with right, then to the top? I guess we'l see..But, at the moment its looking nails so i just guessed the grade range to how it felt, we might not

actually be able to climb the wall section or lock the crimp to the top, i guess thats apart of it though, not knowing.

Brandon on 'Proper Glory' Font 7b

The Line of 'Into The Light', it doesnt keep to the left really,just straight up the wall, its also aot bigger than it looks, and better quality!

Moors Madness

So, the last post could have possibly been an over exaggeration, possibly. We will see about that. However this one will not be. On Friday my man Lee from Beta Guides picked me up to explore the desolate regions of the North Yorkshire Moors. We parked up where the road somehow turned into just a path. Now this trip was certainly the most hardcore searching i've ever done, the terrain was definitely the worst, boggy swampy marshy hills, bracken and bushes came as high as my face, non-vissible streams and rivers...then the sun went down. Luckily, Lee is that much of a psycho that he carried my rucksack for me, as I'm just not hardcore enough! We checked out a few boulders but found nothing worth camping at, until we had to settle somewhere as it got pitch black. That night was, something different. We put the one man tent up, got my cheese and onion pasty and got the beers in! I then explained my how money came to be, how the central banking system was created, and my deep concerns for things like the federal reserve. Whether the agenda's of the bloodline elite are successful or not, there is still going to be some trauma in the process of them trying to achieve globalization/centralization of power. As we learn better when going through great trauma, destroy-offer solution-rebuilld.

Then I found this sick boulder, scrubbed the lichen off, chalked it, and worked it for a couple of hours, it has a hard crux move, the rest is still sustained. Then 'Rassassier' was born, french for 'to satisfy ones hunger' which it did. Sistart round the corner of where I am in the pic, on a jug, then just keep traversing leftwards until you get to some jugs on the lip right round the corner, then you might as well rock up, (its the most logical thing to do) the line speaks for itself though when your there. I'd like some people to repeat it please, it will just take a day to get to! It felt like 7C/7C+, harder than Brad Pit and The Terrace. A larger ape index may possibly dable with the grade, but I still think it would test people. This photo is me going for the crux move, you slap again with your left to that sloper. Big move. It is located on top of a valley above a river, just North of 'Kay Nest'. The rock is amazing sandstone, really nice to touch, good friction but doesn't wreck your skin really quick. Awesome moves on this and some other projects on the boulders near by...have fun if you go!

I Found Something!!

Yesterday... me, my brother, and a driver (who cannot be named for revolutionary purposes) drove to Doncaster, to search for a limestone cave. For a start, we wasn't actually sure if this cave existed, as the only information I had on it, was a few pictures from a local non-climber who for a year now is still un-contactable. The directions to this cave were pretty vague to say the least!

We had this picture....(by the way, I dont actually know any of these people, I just found it on the 'bebo.com' a year ago)

NOW...

LUCKILY.....

At first. We went the total wrong way, we was about 6miles from this place. BUT....

We parked the car at the side of a road, as I though I could see some rock on google maps on my phone, so we headed up this track. About 5 minutes later I looked up into the trees and saw a bulge of rock, as you can imagine, I ran pretty god damn fast up to it, this first piece wasnt the best but good if you are an easy climber. This set me off anyhow. I ran through the woods at about 30mph, then suddenly, I slipped and headed down a hill in the forest. What I then found is amazing. This is like everything I have ever dreamed of, and fantasised about. We had always joked about being in this situation but in Scunthorpe. I found at least 10 perfect over hung limestone boulders, limestone which was completely stable and probably comparable quality to castle hill! Seriously! Brandon then (whilst screaming) found the most amazing line, he pulled tons of ivy and branches away to uncover the sickest over hanging prow in the world! Well, probably.. That prow looks at least V10...This venue may have been found before, but not by any climbers, if they have, they have never climbed any of these boulders in the last 60 years! They are perfect but completely uncovered and in a secret huge pot hole in the forest covered in huge bracken and plants. I then came across a limestone crag, that looked amazing for sport climbing, this rock was different though, with black streaks and real blocky.

After this, we did eventually move on and proceeded to discover the picture above, which is again amazing quality limestone. This place may possibly have been climbed on before, but it is not documented or mentioned anywhere on the internet. However theres no chalk or polish, or any signs of useage. You could maybe some good, quality, hard almost-eliminate problems here, and some decent proper lines.

Doncaster has alot more potential than anyone has ever told me, unfortunately, we didnt take a pad, we had brushes/shoes and chalk but to be honest I was expecting a chalky quarry or something thats falling to bits. Now...I would just kindly offer you the location, but, I've been climbing alot at Raven Tor lately, and for a few weeks now I've been wanting some nice, steep problems. I know that there are secret crags established in the Peak District, people like Dan Varian have formed a small group, kind of like the illuminati of peak district climbing, and I cannot know where these places are, apparently, but I have been teased with pictures of these problems, and the moves look good! Also, for all the people that refused to tell me where Crag X is, ''god knows mate, i've never been''....8a.nu socrecard: Seans Problems - Crag x'

Cheers mate!

So, we are going to develop the whole place, and when we have climbed all the best ones, and made a short film about it, we will offer the location...

Unless however you just email me and say that your an alright guy...

Tumbleweed Video..and thoughts

So here is the video I put together...annnd, yeah, well, thats about it really...

Brandon is going to repeat it this week hopefully, however the sudden change in weather conditions is throwing two problems into the equation, 1. Our job is (extreme) window cleaning, and completely depends on the weather, if it rain tomorrow and Thursday we will not finish for the week, we are already one day down. 2. Raven Tor can be one seeping son of a bitch after confident rain, and the sit-start of Tumbleweed uses slots and pockets which seep, or become damp...not good. I need Brandon to send it, so we can carry on with our other trips in the UK, places we want to go before we head to New Zealand, the first place is Woodwell in the South Lakes, again, this limestone venue could possibly be off-course if rain persists. You know, I'v got places to be blocs to climb and moves to feel!

I assume there may have been some speculation on the grade of this climb, which is why I am psyched to climb some more hard things, mainly because when I touch down in NZ, I'd like to know what boulder grade I am capable of, when it is at my full limit, all guns blazing...so I have a gauge to work with on my first ascents over there, embarrassing it would be to grade a boulder something like 8A, which, on the north island would be fairly significant, and it turns out, after the locals have a slap, it is much easier. I will also be having the last 3 weeks to say goodbye to the Peak District (for now). Saying goodbye to Stanage will be defiantly be an emotional experience, I used to go every Saturday, when I'd only been climbing a few months, and suck in all the goodness, the ferns, trees, the amber rock at sunset, the rock itself and the feel of it, I'd certainly say it is the place I feel most connected to, it is like a person, especially the boulders, problems like Pebble Arete and The Green Traverse are like old friends that I visit. It comforts me that they will always be there for me. Hmmm, Stanage you sexy beast! Also the Burbage Valley is very important, those last three weeks will just be spent climbing the most amazing moves those places have to offer, hopefully with some good friction and nice people.

Tumbleweed

So, once again, we located ourselves at raven tor, with pasta and chalk. This time, I was even more tired from work because after we had finished the window cleaning for the week, we had to scrape paint of this house, and then sand it down, great times that was. That evening was very humid and a bit damp at the tor, but I got warmed up anyway and soon tried Tumbleweed from the start, I got to the last 2 moves and peeled off, as I was horrendously pumped, also I tried some wakced out beta with heel hooks in your face and stuff, which brought it all on my arms, so we left it that night and went to the pub to talk about the illuminati, central banking system and the federal reserve, the new world order and RFID chips ECT and then settled down on the floor for the night. The next day, basically, I got warmed up, tried it a couple of times from the start, got ready, breathed heavily and went light headed to receive sub-atomic help via personal trans-dimensional entities, pulled on and sent it. It was my first Font 8a, not really my style or what I do but it was still decent, wonderful last slap to a jug. I did get a video but I am just going to edit it possibly before I put it on. Anyhow there are a couple of pictures...

I may get the train back out into the peak tomorrow, and climb at toms roof at stoney? or NOT... we can have a look but possibly it is disgusting and depressing....we will see....

Quintesscence?... wohoho lets have a look.

Raven Tor

Me and Brandon went to Raven Tor on Wednesday after work, we climbed Tumbleweed Standstart Font 7C+, and Preverse Reverse-Bashers Footless Font 7C, then on the next morning I tried the sit start to 'the cave problem' , which is also the first 3 moves of Tumbleweed, I did this, its 7C but still tricky with some crazy toe jams in some holes what nobody told me about!!, next week I am going to link those 3/4 moves into the Tumbleweed Standstart, and there you have it, 'Tumbleweed'. I think its a fairly new problem and it may be soft but its given Font 8A. I would like to get on some more 8A's after this, escpecially psyched for Diesel Power and Sub Society in the Pass. I'm hopefully going to film all of Tumbleweed on my phone, as some people get abit touchy.

I think since i've been climbing outside every weekend I am accelerating, and to be fair, these things dont seem thaaat hard, I think after I do Tumbleweed I will start climbing at Rubicon, and try Tsunami, as its more finger power, than power/power endurance. And its just fucking nails, Tsuanam-ish isnt that bad, but matching that sloper is tricky-as. I would like to get my fingers to a good level now, Gaskins has inspired me, haha. In New Zealand I would like to think that next year I could potenially put up some hard lines with some very bad crimps.

Recent Adventures

I got back from Wales (Parisella's Cave) today, me and Brandon slept there for 3 nights, and Manchester train station on the floor for the 4th. I hadn't been there for a while so I was pretty psyched. The trip was full of mixed experiences, we met some pretty cool people, but also came across some arrogant negative people in the town, and also THOUASANDS of religious preaching elders! haha, I COULD of taken the microphone from one particular male, and slowly disintegrate Christianity into nothing more than a collection of astrological personifications, alignments and representations, with also some Jesus=Horus-One eyed very disheartened.

The cave trip was fun, we met some English, Welsh, Slovakian, Australian and New Zealand people, we went swimming and climbed even in the day when it was hot, I had stomach cramps from climbing steep terrain all day, with a deep hunger in my stomach, my back is also fucked from sleeping in the cave haha, I climbed

Lou Ferrino - Font 7C+

Rockatrocity - Font 7C

Rock-ACampus - Font 7b+ ?

Beaver Cleaver - Font 7b

Clever Beaver Undercut Start - Font 7b

I've also been at Raven Tor abit lately,

Weedkiller Footless - Font 7C+

Cave problem - Font 7b+

Powerhumps SS - Font 7b+

I hope to get back there soon,

I am too tired now to write anything interesting,

stay safe guys,

Bowderstone Trip

So guys I went to the Bowderstone for 4 days, it was awesome. The mountains and rivers and lakes are so good. We slept around the back in some 'handshake hole' The climbing is pretty decent, just abit sharp! So when you dont know any beta, you can slap to alot of holds you wish you didnt! Its pretty sick climbing though, 4 days wasnt enough, we only just got started, next time I want to try XXXX as well, anyhow, this was the ticklist:

Power Pinch - 7A+, -2nd go

Inaudible Vaudeville - 7B+ - (10 mins)

Impropa Opera RH - 7C, -2nd go

Impropa Opera LH - 7C

Grand Opera - 7C+

Heres a little vid, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YkoojX3acBs

Raven Tor tomorrow for some peak limestone action!

Climbed Mossatrocity on Monday, on and off rain, 2/3 sessions, awesome problem, sick line. Went to Rubicon Wall on Wednesday, made good progress on various things, going to the Bowderstone on Monday for a week, should be amazing. Also going to New Zealand in 4 months, then Hampi in India. Amazing :)

Yooo, I have been working 6 days a week, bought my ticket to New Zealand I'm going 21st September this year! I went out not long ago made progress on The Joker, got my hand on the jug regularly but its just hard to hold the full swing and everything, it'l go, I want to try some other 8A's in the peak as well, I'm going to the Lakes next month and in May. Getting close to V11 I think maybe, anyway I still love climbing :)

I went up to the North Yorkshire Moors the other Sunday with Lee from Betaguides, found some sick projects and did this nice little problem..

So, if anyone out there is remotely interested in my climbing...I've decided the give climbing up, its just not worth what you get out of it...

Ahhhh only joking guys,

Yeah, I got some new holds for my wall, so training is more fun...havn't been out in a while, last time it snowed...pretty frustrating...still getting stronger and climbing harder though...

New Zealand this year for an extensive crazy rampage, annnnd lets climb Font 8a soon :)

Below is my project on the wall, its very fucking fingery and hard. Its 8 moves long with some lock-y-off-y moves and some screw on footholds..pretty nails. If I can climb this project, then I should be able to climb 8a outside...I think, maybe, its just nails basically